Frequently asked questions.

Yes — but only stone rated for the conditions. Outdoor stone must tolerate freeze-thaw cycles, UV exposure and moisture, and meet slip-resistance requirements for the surface.

We help select stone with the right absorption and slip rating, then detail falls and drainage so water moves off the surface rather than pooling. For bluestone, granite and certain travertines, outdoor use is well suited; softer, more porous stones are generally better kept inside.

Good to know: outdoor installations require a fully bonded substrate and movement joints to manage thermal expansion.

Yes. We provide a clear, itemised quote at no cost after an initial conversation and, where needed, a site visit.

Travertine, limestone and lighter porcelain stay coolest underfoot. Darker stones and dense surfaces retain more heat. For pool surrounds and barefoot areas we recommend cool, slip-rated options and can advise on the best choice for your aspect.

Bookmatching is the practice of cutting consecutive slabs from the same block and opening them like the pages of a book, so the veining mirrors across a surface. The result is continuous, bespoke veining that defines a genuinely luxury stone installation — a finish no off-the-shelf tile can replicate.

We work across the Mornington Peninsula and surrounding areas — from Frankston and Mount Eliza through to Sorrento, Red Hill and everywhere between.

Yes. Waterproofing is included in every bathroom, wet room and outdoor installation we carry out, applied strictly to Australian Standard AS 3740 for residential wet areas.

We membrane the full floor, shower walls and wet-zone junctions, with the set-out planned so falls direct water to the waste before any tile is laid. The membrane is cured and inspected before tiling begins — a step we never shortcut.

Common mistake: waterproofing installed without proper junction detailing or falls is the single most common cause of failed wet-area tiling. It's not the place to compromise.

We install limestone, marble, travertine, bluestone, granite, terrazzo and large-format porcelain stone, as well as engineered stones.

Each material behaves differently — limestone is soft and characterful, marble demands precise veining and sealing, and large-format slabs require mechanical handling and a true, flat substrate. We advise on the right stone for the space, traffic and exposure, and source material we trust.

Wells Brothers recommends: seal natural stone before grouting and again after, using a product matched to the stone's porosity.

Using the same tile through adjoining spaces is one of the most effective ways to make a home feel larger, calmer and more cohesive. It isn’t the only right answer — a deliberate change of material can define a space — but consistency of material and direction is the foundation of a resolved interior.

For balconies, decks, podiums and any wet outdoor area — yes. We install waterproofing systems engineered for exposure and substrate movement, with falls and drainage resolved during set-out.

Outdoor membranes must tolerate UV, thermal movement and standing water, and they must tie correctly into the building's structure. We detail movement joints and drainage outlets so water is managed, not trapped.

Good to know: a tiled outdoor surface is only as reliable as the waterproofing beneath it.

Early involvement allows set-out, substrate, falls and material transitions to be resolved with the builder and designer before work reaches site.

Most bathroom tiling takes between one and two weeks, depending on size, material and complexity. A straightforward bathroom with mid-format tile is closer to a week; large-format stone, bookmatched feature walls and wet rooms extend the programme.

We provide a clear schedule before we start and keep you updated daily. Waterproofing, screeding, tiling and sealing each have their own window, and we protect the wider build programme by holding to it.

When to seek advice: if your bathroom has curved walls, multiple falls, or a continuous stone floor-to-wall detail, factor in extra time for set-out.

Screeding is the process of creating a perfectly flat, level surface to tile onto. A sand-and-cement layer is applied and levelled to a precise tolerance before any tile is laid. It is the preparation that gives tiles an even base to sit on — and it is one of the most important stages in achieving a premium finish.

Mitred edges are created by cutting two pieces of stone at 45° and joining them to form a sharp, flush, monolithic corner. The result is an architectural, box-like finish with no visible tile edge — the detail that most clearly separates premium stone work from ordinary tiling.

Most quotes are returned within two to three business days of a site visit, depending on scope and material lead times.

A correctly installed system should last the life of the tiled surface. We use quality membranes applied to manufacturer and Australian standards.

Wells Brothers Tiling has been installing premium tile and natural stone for over twenty years, founded by Michael Wells.

Pool surrounds should use P5 (or R12+) rated surfaces where barefoot use and constant water are expected. P4 is generally sufficient for covered alfresco and patios. We specify the correct rating for each zone so the surface is safe as well as beautiful.

Yes. We can replace individual tiles where spares are available, and colour-match grout. We will always advise if a larger repair is wiser.

It depends on the substrate and condition. We will assess on site and advise whether removal or over-tiling is appropriate for a lasting result.

Yes. Our process is designed for close coordination with architects, interior designers and quality-focused residential builders.

Not every floor needs a new screed, but every floor needs to be flat before tiling. If the existing substrate is already level and suitable, screeding may not be required. If it isn’t flat, screeding is the way to make it flat. We assess the substrate first and only specify screeding where it’s needed.

Yes. Waterproofing is included in our bathroom tiling process and is completed to Australian standards before tiling begins.

We resolve falls and drainage during set-out so water moves correctly off the surface, hidden within the layout rather than visible channels.

Most natural stone benefits from sealing. We recommend the appropriate sealer and a maintenance schedule suited to the stone and its location.

Generally, larger formats with fewer grout lines make a space feel larger and more continuous — the eye reads the surface rather than the grid of joints. Running the tile in the direction of the longest sight line lengthens the space further. The right size depends on the room, but large-format is almost always the more expansive choice.

A typical bathroom takes one to two weeks of tiling, depending on size, material and complexity. We will give you a clear programme before we start.

Yes. Large-format porcelain is a core part of our practice, installed with appropriate substrates and lippage control.

Yes. We source and orient bookmatched slabs so veining flows continuously, with mitred returns for a solid, monolithic appearance.

Yes. Large-format tile and stone slabs up to 1200mm or larger require a true, flat substrate, mechanical handling, and a fully bonded installation with the right adhesive and back-buttering.

Precision here is non-negotiable — a 1mm lipping defect is visible at this scale. We set out to avoid cross-grain cuts, manage movement joints, and use levelling systems where the material demands it.

Wells Brothers recommends: confirm slab thickness and squareness before installation; out-of-spec slabs can't be corrected on site.

Plans or dimensions, the material you are considering, the scope of areas, and your preferred timeline. Inspiration images help us understand the standard you are after.

Yes. Much of our work comes through builders, architects and designers. We collaborate from set-out through to completion to protect the design intent.

Uneven floors show up as lippage between tiles, grout joints that open and close, tiles that rock, and a finish that looks wrong from the first day. We use laser levels to measure flatness before tiling, so the substrate is assessed — not guessed at — before any work begins.

Yes — travertine, bluestone, granite and certain limestones are excellent outdoors. The key is selecting a dense, suitable stone, specifying the right finish for slip resistance, and sealing it correctly. We advise on the best stone for your exposure and application.

Yes. Large-format stone and porcelain panels are ideal in bathrooms, minimising grout lines and creating a seamless, monolithic surface. They demand precise substrate preparation, careful handling and correct sealing, but the result is a cleaner, more architectural finish than traditional tiling.

A matching grout creates a seamless, continuous surface and makes a space feel larger and calmer — ideal for minimalist and contemporary interiors. A contrasting grout emphasises the tile grid and can suit certain styles, but it also highlights every joint. For most timeless interiors we recommend a close match.

Natural stone should always be sealed, and some porcelains benefit from a grout sealer. Sealing protects against staining and moisture without changing the look. We advise on the right sealer and a resealing schedule at handover.

Yes. In renovations, screeding is often used to level and correct an existing floor before new tiles are laid. It can bring an uneven or out-of-level substrate back to a flat, true surface — fixing what’s underneath so the new finish looks right and lasts.

We plan set-out to align grout joints with architectural features and recommend minimal-joint systems where the material allows.

Yes — continuing the same material from floor to wall is a strong way to create a cohesive, architectural feel, especially in bathrooms, laundries and feature areas. It requires correct substrate preparation and detailing at the transition, but the result is a seamless, resolved surface.

Slabs are selected for veining, tone, movement and how they will read across the intended space. For bookmatched or continuous-veining work, slabs are chosen from the same block. We help clients and designers view and select slabs so the finished surface matches the design intent.

Falls are built into the substrate — not the tile — by screeding the surface to a calculated gradient so water runs to drains or gardens. The correct fall depends on the area, finish and where the water needs to go. Getting this right before tiling is what keeps an outdoor surface free of pooling water.

Screed needs to cure and dry fully before tiling begins. Drying time depends on the screed type, thickness and conditions, but it is commonly measured in days to weeks, not hours. It cannot be rushed without consequence — tiling onto screed that hasn’t dried is one of the most common causes of floor failure.

Yes. We use slip-rated materials and installation systems engineered for wet, outdoor Australian conditions.

Larger format tiles are the simplest way to reduce grout lines. Beyond format, precise layout, consistent joint widths and rectified tiles all keep joints minimal and clean. The goal is for the surface to read as a continuous material rather than a grid.

Yes — significantly more. Set-out, slab selection, veining flow, bookmatching, junctions and edge details are all resolved before any stone is cut. This planning is exactly what produces a flawless, intentional finish rather than a competent but generic one.

Often yes, provided the concrete is sound, clean and correctly prepared. We assess the substrate for cracks, movement and surface condition, and may recommend crack-isolation membranes or expansion joints. Tiling over a poorly prepared slab is a common cause of outdoor failures, so we assess this carefully first.

No. Tiles should only be installed once the screed has cured and dried fully. Installing too early is one of the most common causes of cracked tiles, failed grout and lifted floors. The wait is the work — and it is what protects the finished floor for the long term.

Falls and drainage are resolved during planning to ensure water moves correctly without compromising the aesthetic.

Absolutely. We work as a craft partner to architects, interior designers and builders — resolving complex set-outs and junctions, advising on material behaviour, and delivering the standard a design demands. The best luxury results come from early collaboration rather than tiling being treated as an afterthought.

Large-format porcelain offers minimal grout lines, exceptional durability, stain and fade resistance, and no sealing — with stone, concrete and timber looks available. It is the most practical route to a seamless, contemporary, low-maintenance interior.

Often yes — using a compatible exterior-rated tile or stone in a matching finish allows the surface to flow from inside to out, blurring the line between interior and exterior. The exterior surface must be slip-rated and laid to falls, but the continuity is one of the most effective architectural moves available.

Yes. We can orient slabs for bookmatching and continuous veining across feature walls and surfaces.

We use durable, weather-resistant grouts suited to outdoor conditions — often epoxy or specialist outdoor cementitious grouts with flexible additives. The right grout resists staining, water ingress and movement, and is matched to the tile and expected use.

Skipping preparation is the single most common cause of floor problems. On an uneven substrate, tiles follow the floor: lippage between tiles, opening grout joints, cracked stone and a finish that never looks right. The cost of fixing it later is far greater than the cost of preparing it properly first.

Yes. We help source premium stone — marble, travertine, quartzite, granite and limestone — and can arrange slab viewing so veining and tone are chosen to suit the project. We work with trusted local and international suppliers to match the right material to the design intent and budget.

Large-format tiles demand a flatter substrate than any other tile. Because they span more of the floor, any undulation underneath telegraphs straight to the surface. For large-format porcelain and natural stone, a flat, screeded substrate isn’t optional — it’s essential to achieving a flat, lippage-free finish.

With the right sealing and maintenance, many natural stones perform beautifully in wet areas. We advise on the best choice for your space.

With correct substrate preparation, drainage, materials and installation, outdoor tiling should last decades — often the life of the home. Most premature failures come from poor preparation or drainage, which is why those details are our starting point on every exterior project.

We apply waterproofing systems that meet and exceed Australian Standard AS 3740, with full attention to junctions and penetrations.

Yes. Waterproofing is itemised within our quotes so there is no ambiguity about what is included.

Yes. Bookmatched walls, mitred vanities and bespoke details are a speciality. Share your concept and we will resolve it.

Regularly. We welcome detailed design packages and work to deliver the architect’s intent precisely.

Yes. Our consultation covers material selection, set-out planning and sequencing to support the finished result.

Early. Involving us during planning allows set-out and substrate decisions to be resolved before work reaches site.